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Chủ đề: For new miniaturists

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  1. #21
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    Rep Power

    Re: Mini Apartment/house Projects

    Darrell’s Electrification Guide: Tape Wiring and More By Darrell Payne
    I know we’ve seen this tutorial on tape wiring before. In fact, it’s the ultimate in tape wiring guides! But we’ve included it in this issue to round out our complete guide to wiring. Darrel’s pictorial guide can also be found in the Greenleaf galleries here.
    Useful tools to have. Hammer you recognize. Others left to right are grommet punch, brad insertion tool, pilot hole punch (awl), tester (lamp), pin vise with drill, Xacto knife, small screwdriver.
    Having laid down the first tape we need to install the junction splice to get power into the system. Note that I cut the conductive material away from the pilot hole I made for the screw. It prevents shorts even though they are unlikely if screw is centered exactly.
    Install splice by tapping with hammer to get two contacts to pierce conductors in tape and alternately tightening the screw until it is FULLY seated. Note I put it far enough INSIDE the house so the connecting plug has support too and won't stick out to be bent or broken off.
    Begin a new run by overlapping the conductive tape on top of another run. This picture shows that you can even use tapes from different manufacturers (or eras as the case may be).
    Make sure the tape is pressed down FIRMLY and keep a slight pressure on the untaped part to prevent bubbles as they're harder to cover later. Just run your thumb along the tape as you go pressing the tape down.
    Places where the tape connects floor to wall (as here) or wall to ceiling or an inside corner will not easily go IN to that corner. Using a fingernail may break or cut the connector. See next picture.
    I use the NOT SHARP back of some scissors to gently press and work the tape into the corner. Here I pressed the wall part first (to the side) then the floor part (down). It doesn't have to be PERFECT but close is a good idea.
    Then just continue sticking the tape down with your thumb as before. Notice that there's a LOT of extra tape. It doesn't matter if you have too much but if you have too little and it doesn't reach you'll have to use a whole new piece of tape. Besides, the flooring will cover this.
    Our new tape is in but it needs power. NOTE: POWER is OFF and UNPLUGGED while making new connections to prevent damage to the transformer. There's not enough power to shock you. Punch four pilot holes diagonally. That's two per conductor. Make sure each pair are in different conductors.
    These brass brads are TEENY! You don't have to use this tool (available from CirKit dealers) but it really helps. The jar had jelly at one time from one of those Hickory Farms sausage, cheese, jelly gift boxes. Holds all my tiny brads.
    As you can see, even without clamping it shut yet it will hold the tiny little brad quite easily. Of course you should clamp it shut before attempting to position it where you intend to install the brad.
    Holding the brad with the insertion tool, place the point in one of the four pilot holes and press down firmly. Press STRAIGHT. Even doing that one of every 20 or so will BEND and have to be discarded. Don't try to use a bent one because doing so may damage the tape which costs more than another brad.
    Once the brad is in as far as you can push it in, slip the tool off (it's slotted) and use the back of the tool to press the head of the brad the remaining way into the wood. You DO have the power off and disconnected right? Repeat this for EACH of the four holes, then tap them all LIGHTLY with a hammer just to be sure.
    This is how each tape to tape connection should look. Note the right conductor to right conductor and left conductor to left conductor connection. Theoretically you only need one brad per conductor but we want INSURANCE the connection will last.
    Get all the metal tools away from the connection and connect the power and turn it on and TEST your connection. Be sure to test on the NEW tape not the one that already HAD power. Once you know it works remove the testor and power off and unplug again to do the next connection.
    When installing tape wiring with those tiny parts it's often easier to turn your dollhouse on it's side, back or even roof. Then you're always working DOWNWARD which is definitely easier to do. Here you can see the run going up the back wall of our church we just connected to the floor run. We need to connect it to the upper run for the ceiling light fixtures.
    Installed four brads as before, then added power and tested the run on the OTHER tape that did NOT have power before. Remember we already tested the one coming up the wall from the floor.
    These are typical cheap dollhouse wall sockets. They come four to a package. They aren't to scale so if you use them I recommend putting them in places they won't be noticed as easily. Like behind where you will have furnishings, behind the fireplace, etc. In this case it's going to be way up inside our bell tower.
    I had already textured the inside of the tower before putting the wire in so once this is installed I'll add more texturing over the wiring. Fortunately it's not easily seen without crawling inside the church. I drilled two pilot holes and pressed the socket in. Now I just need to put a scrap block of soft wood on it and POUND IT IN with the hammer. Power is OFF and unplugged.
    Once it's in, I test sockets TWO ways. First I apply power and make sure the tape under the socket is good (see tester) then I actually plug something in and see if it lights. No, it's not plugged all the way in because sometimes they get stuck so I don't want to fully seat it yet. It's just plugged in enough to see if the socket works.
    Usually I wire lights into the tape itself but in this case I'm using the plug and socket. I want it to hang OUT of the tower to the room below so I had to open the fixture and lengthen the wire. Then I glued the fixture to the bell tower ceiling and wrapped up the extra wire. (The "rope" you see will be used to ring the bell of course!)
    The tower ceiling isn't glued in place yet and I need to straighten out the hanging wire and coil up the excess going to the plug but it's in where it will be. To open this tower up I had to cut off the hole in the roof for it. In the kit this is normally just a peaked roof and you can't see inside the tower NOR is there anyplace for that "rope".
    I often wire lighting directly in. In some cases it's not practical and you MUST use sockets. Hiding them helps. Here I am marking and installing sockets UNDER the upper lip of the open side. And yes, I have a small pillow.
    Each of these 3 assemblies will have two lights. The beams are too narrow for tape wire so I'll use the wire already on the light fixtures. I've gathered them all together here.
    To make sure all the lights line up nicely, I have put the 3 beam assemblies together and mark the lamp locations on all 3 at once.
    I intend to color and route the wire along the beams. To do so, I must take each lamp and carefully remove all the "kinks" in the wire making it straighter and smoother to work with.
    Then I used a regular marker to paint the wire black. Paint would work better. This stuff comes off on my fingers something awful. LOL!
    But I managed to get all six of them done. Next I glue 2 lamps to the bottom of each wood assembly centered on the marks made earlier and taped them in place to dry.
    Lamps are drying and now I'm gluing the wire down to the top of the cross beam. From the left vertical support there are 2 wires to glue down. This is to make the wire less noticeable.
    All 3 assemblies are ready to install with 1 exception. The two underneath have their excess wire coiled into a loop and tied that way with thread and the last one on top still needs that done. So the wire won't be hanging down.
    Each assembly is glued into place and masking tape applied till it dries. Then we plug the 6 plugs into their sockets and turn the power on. They ALL LIGHT UP! We DID remember to test each socket when it was installed so unless I broke a wire putting these together it SHOULD work.
    From this LOW angle you can see the plugs.
    Looking towards front, you can see the hole cut for the steeple tower and it's chandelier lamp along with rope to the bell. And of course still from the low angle the plugs show up. I see they need to be seated a bit more and I need to straighten the hanging portions of the lamps a bit.
    To space beams correctly I put one on each end, then measured to the mid point for the center one. Then from center to each end another beam was put at THOSE center points for a total of FIVE. The 2 on the end walls of course have no lamps, just the ones away from the walls.
    Glue has set up and tape is all gone. This is the view from the front door of the church and what the little worshippers will see when they enter. Notice no wiring shows.
    Installing A Ceiling Fixture into Tape Wire
    I'm going to show you the first of two methods that can be used to install a ceiling fixture.
    Before installing ANY light or other fixture, it's a good idea to test it first to see if it works. I turned the power on, and plugged it into a previously installed outlet. (I ALWAYS install at least ONE outlet in anything I do for just this purpose)
    I don't need to try to hide all this long wiring and I won't need the plug so I cut them off. Just a bit longer than I think I need to give me some room to play. (SAVE this and when you begin to make your own lamps you'll have a power cord with plug already for it.)
    I've carefully split the two wires apart and stripped the ends of them.
    I've measured and marked on the floor ABOVE where I am going to install the fixture. I'm drilling two small holes for the wires to come though.
    Here are the wires coming up through the holes from the ceiling below
    I've gone ahead at this point and attached the fixture to the ceiling. This helps by removing any downward pressure on the wires while I'm trying to work on them above.
    Even though there is a tape near it's not close enough for my short wires. No problem. I have a small scrap of the tape wire to add. But it's not CONNECTED so the new tape has no power yet.
    Now it does. As shown before in connecting two tapes, I've just added the four brads to connect the new tape to the existing one it crosses.
    To make these connections, I installed a brad into each conductor of the tape but didn't push them quite all the way down. Using tweezers I wrapped one wire around EACH of these, then pushed them to seat them firmly into the tape. This SHOULD now be functional.
    I turn on the power and we DO have a working ceiling fixture now. BUT... I'm not finished. I like "insurance" against future problems, so....
    I add a small bit of solder to each of the connections back up on top. (with the power off of course to avoid damage in case I short the two sides DURING the soldering with the iron.
    To install a socket we first have to locate our HIDDEN tape wiring. I always install mine centered 1 inch above the floor line. To be sure I use the test probe. I have a powered tape here.
    To install a socket we first have to locate our HIDDEN tape wiring. I always install mine centered 1 inch above the floor line. To be sure I use the test probe. I have a powered tape here.
    Now I plug a lamp into the newly installed socket and turn the power back on to test it. This one works fine
    What about installing to a tape run on the ceiling itself. Here's the light I want to install laying over the floor installation from the ceiling below.
    By a mix of measuring and guessing I poked around thru the FINISHED ceiling with my test probe with power ON, until I found the tape. It's here.
    I don't want to lose the spot so I make a couple of small marks by each prong. And then turn the power back off.
    I make a couple of pilot holes with the punch, and press a brad into each one of them.
    Here are the two brads installed into the ceiling. Did they actually hit the tapes correctly? Next I'll find out.
    To check them I turn the power back on and just TOUCH the prongs on the test probe to the brads. It lights so we have installed them INTO the tape run correctly. Turn the power back off.
    To prepare the light for installing I cut the long wire off. Then carefully separate and strip the two wires. These are a lot shorter than the ones that had to go thru the ceiling before.
    I "tin" the two wires AND the two brads in the ceiling with solder. Preparing the parts in this way makes the next step much easier.
    Before we wrapped the wires around the brads before fully seating them. You could do that here as well. But I find it easier by tinning the parts and then just holding a tinned wire against a tinned brad and touching it with the soldering iron. As soon as it moves into connection, remove the iron and hold it just a second. It's attached. It's a lot easier. Later I'll make a separate album on soldering if there's enough request for it.
    To test it, just turn the power on. This one works fine. The reason the light is hanging UP at an odd angle is the house is on it's back at the moment because I found it easier to work on this part that way.
    All that's left is to stick the light fixture to the ceiling, hiding the wires in the process. This light is installed.

    Installing a pound-in light
    In this house we're building there's a "faux" hallway wayyy in back. It's not possible to easily wire or light that hole. Here's how I tackled that one. There are some small lights designed to pound directly INTO a tape run. No adaptors or wires needed. Problem is, in this spot we cannot even get TO it with a hammer NOR can we SEE what we're doing. Here's one of the two types we have.
    First I cut off a length of tape wire a bit longer than I think I need. Then I poked the prongs of the pound in light into the tape on one end.
    With the backing peeled off here's the two prongs protruding thru the tape wire. I took this to an anvil and bent then carefully tapped these prongs so they layed down against the back of the tape and added a bit of solder to hold it better.
    The light itself cannot be seen, but the light it produces is what I'm after. So I carefully stick the tape up and inside the fake hallway hole by "feel" and rub the tape down to make sure it's stuck well.
    Then I carefully run the tape thru the doorway opening, and up across the ceiling to cross an existing tape wire. Then of course use the brads to attach it to the working tape wire. This is done with power off of course.
    So now all that's left to do is turn the power back on and see if it works. It does. And I admit I was kind of perplexed for a while as to how to light this space.
    (Editor’s Note: Our thanks to Darrell for sharing his expertise with us and showing so many ways to light up our little world!)
    Woman of short-lived passions

  2. #22
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
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    Rep Power

    Re: For new miniaturists

    Get The Look: Maximalism in 1/12th Scale for the Dolls House

    Jane Kubiesa

    Posted on 07 May 2012

    Dressing Screen from Unique Miniatures

    Someone once described maximalism as looking like an explosion in an interior design shop - it is a fair description of this unusual, eclectic style. Maximalism began as an antidote to the austere and sanitised minimalist look, mixing clashing patterns and colours with lashings of accessories and nick-nacks to fill every conceivable space. This is the style that the Victorians would have adopted if they were here today.
    For the miniaturist, the flooring of choice is the self-adhesive carpet which mimics the shag pile flooring popular with this style, and comes in a wide range of colours. Scatter brightly coloured rugs with heavy patterns and textures to complete the busy look - Turkish, Chinese or brash 1970's prints all work well.
    Walls tend to be randomly covered with every kind of picture, painting and wall decoration imaginable. If any of the actual wall covering is still visible, it should be ornate and highly patterned with painted skirting boards. There are two main options in wall coverings; the first is a different design of wall paper or paint on each wall, but in complimentary colours. The second uses lavishly painted wallpaper for all walls, with the same or a related pattern on all soft furnishings like bed covers, cushions, lampshades and curtains. Floral and animal or bird patterns are ideal.

    Janet Granger's co-ordinating projects in 1/12th scale & Kay Burton's abstract original artwork
    In homage to its Victorian inspired links and its use of 1970's fashions, any lighting in a maximalist interior really needs a traditional fabric shade. And whether this has spacey 1970 patterns, chintzy florals, tassels or a striking colour, it can be used on ceiling lights, wall lights, table or standard lamps.

    Kay A. Burton's bird themed interiors collection includes over 40 items, papers, fabric, prints, plates etc
    With this look once you think your room is finished; add a few more items and then your're done. In terms of furnishings - anything goes. This style aims to use items from every period and nothing is thrown away. Cupboards are banished in favour of open shelves and display cabinets to show off everything your miniature homeowner has.
    How to Customise
    • Re-cover sofas and chairs in the same floral or animal pattern fabric.
    • Curtians, throws, cushions, lampshades and bed sheets can also be made with the same material for a unified finish.

    Jaspers Miniatures Wonham Starburst Colours double duvet set & Contemporary sofa & chair from 1 Inch Minis of America
    • Fabric can be scanned and resized on a computer or photocopier to create artwork and lining paper for the inside of shelves or drawers.
    • Waterslide decal paper for home printing can be used to add your chosen motif to plain crockery or ceramic tiles.
    • Give furniture a lick of paint in bold block colour to complement the room. Use silver, gold or marker pen to add interest.
    • The more accomplished artist could try painting miniature scenes or animals onto table tops.

    Medieval cupboard from Ann High, Palm Tree Design Commode from ACD Miniatures & Blondie Creations USA Flag Table
    Where to find inspiration
    To get an idea of the kind of excesses involved in maximalism, the Victorians can show us a thing or two. Visit Eastnor Castle's Gothic Drawing room by A.W. Pugin (www.eastnorcastle.com), or pop by the Victoria and Albert museum (www.vam.ac.uk) for a wealth of Victorian design.
    For inspiration from full-sized furniture from maximalist trend setters, www.made.com has a range of unique furniture with a retro edge, while companies like Fabulous Furniture (www.fabulousfurniture.co.uk) and Straight Line Designs Inc. (www.straightlinedesigns.com) feature quirky fashions ideal for translating into 1/12th scale.
    This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.
    For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the marketplace section of this website.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  3. #23
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    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
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    Re: For new miniaturists

    TOP TIPS for beginners and makers of DIY dolls house miniatures

    Ann Sutcliffe Web Editor
    Posted on 05 Jun 2012

    • When you need lots of pieces of stained wood to complete a project, stain or wax a complete length, then cut the pieces from the pre-stained length as required.
    • Gluey wood will not take a stain. Either stain before gluing or remove excess glue with a damp q-tip.
    • If you have an unavoidable glue mark that will not take a wood stain, sand back to the bare wood and stain that part again.
    • When sanding kit components to remove the little burrs, take care not to distort the shapes with excessive sanding.
    • Applying a coat of sanding sealer (shellac) to MDF edges allows them to be sanded, and prevents paint being absorbed into the MDF.
    • Avoiding breathing dust when working with MDF.
    • It is easier to hammer or screw in nails or hooks into cupboards or beams etc., before you glue them in place in the dolls house.
    • When cutting pieces of circular wood from a length of dowel it is best to roll the wood back and forth under the blade of a craft knife to obtain a nice clean cut.

    • If your perspex or acylic window 'glass' or mirror has protective film, don't peel this off until you have finished the project to prevent paint splashes or the mirrors and windows getting scratched.
    • If you are using shrink plastic, you can create a stained glass window design using a rubber stamp and black ink. You can colour the rubber stamped design with felt tip pens before shrinking the plastic in a domestic oven.
    • The best glue I've found to glaze windows is Glue 'n' Glaze by Deluxe Materials.
    • Always wallpaper/paint first before putting the windows in, as the frames will cover up any little imperfections giving a perfect finish around the window frames.

    • Use wet wipes to keep your hands clean.
    • If the clay gets too sticky, spread a little talc on your hands.
    • Experiment with different mixes of colour to get the exact shade you require.
    • When making flowers, add at least 1/4 part translucent to give delicacy to the finish.
    • When working with pale, white or flesh coloured clay, it is essential that you have thoroughly clean hands and equipment. This way you will avoid little specks of dirt and fluff spoiling your hard work.
    • Take care when handling tiny and thin petals, leaves and other items, as they can break and distort easily. It is better to make them on the baking tile/sheet to avoid damage before they are baked.
    • Wash hands throughly when changing between colours of clay, as the pigment/colour does adhere to the skin.
    • An old ceramic plate or tile is useful for placing clay on, as it tends to stay put when appling coloured chalks to unbaked clay.
    • Clay does not become fully hardened until it has cooled after baking. It is easier to cut whilst still warm.
    • To avoid shiny patches where pieces touch the baking tile, bake them on a baking tray lined with baking parchment instead.
    • Another way of keeping clay clean is to roll it out and work it on a sheet of A4 white paper, using a different sheet for each colour to prevent cross contamination of colours on your work.
    • When cutting slices from unbaked prepared clay e.g. cake or bread slices, put the canes in the fridge for a while first, this firms up the clay and will help retain a neat slice without distorting the patterns when cutting.
    • The most helpful thing of all is to have an actual real life picture or the real item in front of you to work from.

    • Beading with tiny seed beads - put the beads into a small bowl and scoop the needle through the beads. As you do this it will pick up a few beads each scoop - much less time consuming than threading each bead individually.
    • When turning a curved edge, always sew a row of tiny running stitches near the edge so the curve can be turned neatly.
    • When embroidering, don't jump from area to area, work methodically through the pattern top to bottom, left to right, otherwise it is very easy to miscount your stitches.
    • Attaching interfacing only to the actual part of the miniature garment which requires stiffening whilst leaving the seams free will ensure a neater seam and more effective finish.
    • When making a dress or gown for doll or a mannequin, always begin with the skirt.
    • The advantage of glued seams is that they are very 'flat' when ironed and don't have the 'bulk' of a thread sewn seam.
    • A little spray of water will help a skirt to drape nicely.
    • Spray starch can be used to stiffen fabrics so they stick out as you wish them to.
    • Spray water or starch onto your fabrics over a sink.
    • I often use the airing cupboard for drying any draping.
    • I put mine on top of the radiator!
    • Look out for odd leather gloves in charity shops, the leather is usally very thin and perfect for miniature work.
    • When embroidering work with lengths of thread no longer than 50 or 60 cms. This will prevent fraying, knotting and the threads thinning at the end of each piece creating uneven work.
    • An embroidery thread will spiral and twist as you work, which can cause it to knot. Every few stitches, drop your needle and allow it to unspin naturally before continuing with your embroidery.
    • If you do get a knot, there is often a loop into which you can insert the needle tip and gently work the knot loose.
    • Silk fabrics fray easily, to help, run a fine line of tacky glue to the edge or along your cutting line and allow to dry before cutting out the pattern.
    • To get tablecloths to hang niceley on small tables, glue tin foil on the wrong side of the material, then when it is placed on the tables the sides can be shaped to hang perfectly.

    • Scenic water is brilliant, but can look a little yellow....add a TINY drop of blue from the Scenic Water colour kit to get that classic pale greeny tap water look.
    • Try to work outside when using spray paint, glue or varnish.
    • Grip wax or blu-tack the item to be sprayed into a cardboard box and contain the spray paint etc within the box.
    • Always use in a well ventilated room if you have to work indoors.
    • Children under 12 should always be supervised when using sprays.

    • Super Glue gel is preferable to the normal stuff which can run all over the place.
    • For attaching leaves and flowers to stems, tacky glue is the best product to use.
    • Use PVA wood glue for wood to wood gluing.
    • For plastic or metal use a good clear drying contact adhesive e.g. Speed Epoxy
    • For fine and precision gluing, use a Fine Tip applicator bottle with your PVA or tacky glue. Or keep different ones filled with each type of glue.
    • To glaze windows, the best glue I've found is Glue 'n' Glaze by Deluxe Materials.
    • Hot glue guns are useful if you need a glue that dries almost instantly, but you have to be very careful as they do get very hot and are not suitable for really fine work.

    • LED strip lights are available in bright white to give the effect of daylight, or warm white to give the effect of candle lights. These add to the illusion of reality in your dolls house.
    • Always test lights are working BEFORE fixing them into your dolls house.

    • When grouting bricks or tiles, add paint to the normally white filler to take the brightness out it.
    • Mixing sand with paint will create a rough texture for external walls etc.
    • When plastering the exterior of a house or roof with polyfilla or similiar, and you need to remove the marks of the spatular, use a latex glove on your hand, dip it in water, and glide the hand over to leave a smooth finish.

    • For traditional banisters with wooden spindles, pre-drill the spindle holes into each tread before assembling the staircase.
    • Fit spindles and bannisters where possible before gluing the staircase into the dolls house.

    • To avoid printed paper buckling, stretching or warping, try using double sided sticky tape instead of glue.

    • Always do a dry run before reaching for the glue bottle.
    • Use masking tape and/or rubber bands to hold the kit together so you are familiar with the order of assembly.
    • After final assembly, and whilst the glue is setting, it is important to ensure that the house or piece of furniture is sitting on a flat level surface and that all parts are correctly located and square.

    • If you are going to be doing a lot of miniature creations, then needle nosed tweezers are worth their weight in gold.
    • For cutting small pieces of wood straight or with accurate angles, a pair of wood clippers is the favourite tool.
    • One of the best sanding devices I've ever found for miniature work is an emery board!
    • Using a soft paint brush will reduce brush marks on your work.
    • Keep your scalpel or craft knife blade pushed into an old wine bottle cork for safety in the tool box.

    • The contents of dried used tea bags mixed with white PVA or tacky glue to a stiff consistency makes very good potting compost.
    • When using scenic scatter or sprinkles of any description, work over a sheet of paper, and to avoid wastage, tip any excess back into the container.
    • When gluing scatter or other foliage onto a circular or domed bush or tree shaped former, put it into an egg cup to prevent it rocking around whilst applying glue and foliage.

    • For a great source of tiny jewels and other little bits and pieces, try the cosmetic department for decorative nail art accessories.

    • Sight lines make rooms more interesting by creating sight lines throughout the scene.
    • A flash of colour at the back will draw your eye into the room.
    • Think about creating movement, make people want to to look around the room, not just at it!
    • Make sure that all the details on your peices look good from all angles. When closely inspected, you do not want the viewer to be disappointed by unpainted or unfinished areas.
    • Grip wax/tacky wax is an essential tool for any miniaturist.


    These tips and hints have come from the DIY articles in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine and Dolls House Projects as well as from other sources. If you like making miniatures why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine, or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. If you are a fan of facebook or twitter, please use the buttons at the top of this page to share with your like minded friends.
    If you have a top tip to add, please email me at emailannsutcliffe@gmail.comso I can add it to the growing list.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  4. #24
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    Re: For new miniaturists

    Materials & Suppliers
    We hope this page will be a helpful resource to both experienced artists and newcomers to miniature art. Whatever your chosen medium, always try to buy the best quality products you can afford. This is not an exhaustive list, however, so if you are a miniature artist and have a favourite supplier or product we would love to hear about it to add to the recommendations below.

    Early miniatures were usually painted on vellum, often stuck onto a playing card for support, but by the mid 1700s this had been replaced in popularity by ivory. Nowadays, artists working in miniature usually use man-made substitutes and some of the most popular are listed below.

    Many media are suitable for miniature art, including watercolour, oil, acrylic, gouache, egg tempera, pencil and pastel. Always choose Artist quality products if you can. They are all widely available from good art stores or online. Here are a few :
    Ken Bromley Art Supplies (UK), Art Discount (UK), Chromocolour (UK, also in the US), L.Cornelissen & Son (UK), T N Lawrence & Son (UK), Jackson Art (UK), Dick Blick (US), Cheap Joes (US), Jerry's Artarama (US).
    Other suppliers include T N Lawrence & Son for engraving supplies and WG Ball for enamelling products.

    Brushes for miniature work need to have very fine points but also hold a good amount of paint. It is a common misconception that our brushes have only one hair! Kolinsky sable brushes are particularly recommended if working with watercolour.

    Rosemary & Co produce an outstanding range of handmade brushes which are available by mail order/ online with delivery worldwide.
    Winsor & Newton produce the Series 7 & Series 7 Miniature ranges which are available from Ken Bromley Art Supplies (UK) and Dick Blick (US) amongst others.
    Chromocolour (UK, also in the US) produce a good range of synthetic brushes available by mail order or online.
    MiniArt Supply (US) stock an excellent range of suitable brushes for the miniaturist.

    Frames for miniature art are usually custom made with very fine mouldings in keeping with the work without overpowering it. Wooden frames and gold or brass frames with convex glass are all popular. It is worth noting that poor presentation can influence selection of work into many of the world's miniature society exhibitions and it is always worth double checking the prospectus for overall size limits.
    • Towngate Framing, now Polymers Plus (UK), and MiniArt Supply (US) both provide extensive ranges of miniature frames and excellent mail order service.
    • Brampton Framing (UK) will also make a wide selection of miniature frames and can assist with choice, including 'visualisation'. They will also supply frames by mail order.
    • Haffke Kunsthandwerk (Germany) produce miniature frames.
    • Bill Wiebold (US) specialises in restoration and period frames.

    Most miniature artists work with the aid of magnification of some kind, which can be anything from reading glasses to lenses fitted onto headbands. Hand-held magnifying glasses and 'gooseneck' magnifiers are also popular. It is worth trying out a variety to find the one that best suits you as it is very much a matter of personal preference. You can order from the range available at Polymers Plus (UK) or other online shops supplying craft magnifiers. Alternatively your local optician will have some.
    Lần sửa cuối bởi obaasan, ngày 31-07-2012 lúc 07:15 PM.
    Woman of short-lived passions

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    Re: For new miniaturists


    A Beginners Guide to Dollhouses* by Marie Wendt

    Before you dive right into the wonderful world of dollhouses and building them, there are a few things you should know.* You probably have a million questions right now like "where do I get a dollhouse kit"... "how do I put one together"... "what tools do I need", etc.* Well, not to worry.* By the time you finish reading this guide, most if not all your questions should be answered and you'll be on your way to building your first dollhouse in no time! **Some dollhouses are exclusively for the adult collector, while others are geared more towards children and playing.* Some aspects of each will not be suitable to the other.* For this guide, however, we will cover the details required of an adult collector.* Please view our Children's Corner page under Resources for information pertaining to a child's dollhouse.
    Probably one of the most important aspects of dollhouse construction and finishing is the knowledge of "scales". This means that dollhouse miniatures are constructed in a certain size. In most cases, when you see a dollhouse kit, or assembled dollhouse, displayed in a shop, it is 1:12 scale. The smaller scales are rapidly growing in popularity, but for the most part 1:12 scale seems to be most preferred. For a beginner, it is recommended that you start in 1:12 scale unless you have your heart set on working in smaller scales.
    Here is a scale chart for you to become familiar with:
    1:12, or 1" Scale Probably the most popular scale to work with. This means that 1 inch in miniature equals 1 foot in real life.
    1:24, or 1/2" Scale This means that 1/2" inch in miniature equals 1 foot in real life.
    1:48, or 1/4" Scale This means that 1/4" inch in miniature equals 1 foot in real life.

    Victorian, Tudor, Modern, and Georgian are among the time periods available in collector dollhouses.*
    Probably one of the most popular house styles is Victorian which started in the 1830's. Their ornate architecture and spacious floor plans allow for a lot of flexibility in decor, furnishings and accessories; even the eclectic. Decoration styles were partly inspired by Louis XIV and the Oriental. Most Victorians showed their wealth with possessions. So if you love LOTS of accessories, this may be the period for you!
    A popular style house for collectors is the Tudor. Tudor houses have an almost 'masculine' feel to them with exposed timbers, plaster, and lots of woodwork. On the flip side of the coin, gardens were a very popular feature of this period. Although there aren't as many furnishings and accessories available for this style, they are gaining in popularity. If you like to make your own furniture, the Tudor style house might be what you're looking for.
    With more and more collectors wanting a dollhouse that resembles their own modern-day real life house, or a house they want to have, Modern dollhouses are becoming more popular. There really isn't anything you can't do with this style. Elaborate kitchens, baths, etc. are so much fun to create. Decorating ideas can be retrieved from magazines at your local bookstore. The possibilities are endless!
    Another very popular house style is Georgian and you'll probably see just as many of these as Victorian; if not more. The Georgian period was all about classic symmetry and organization. The houses are large, spacious and very elegant. If it's a mansion with grand proportions you're after, then this is the period for you!

    We will start off talking about dollhouse "kits". If you're building from scratch with detailed plans, the following will also apply. Once you have your kit, the first thing you need to do is double-check to make sure you have all your pieces. Kits should come with a parts list for you to go through and check off each item as you come across it. If you are missing any pieces, contact the manufacturer immediately to get any replacements.
    Now that all your pieces have been accounted for, it's a good idea to "prime" all interior and exterior surfaces of the wall, floor and ceiling panels.* This will help to prevent warping when applying paint, wallpaper, stucco, etc.* It also helps you achieve a more balanced and "true" color when applying paint and wallpaper.* There are several good brands of primer/sealer on the market and they can be found at your local home store.* I use one with a white pigment so the wood grain of the dollhouse doesn't show through my paint or wallpaper.* Painting the exterior walls of the house after priming will also be beneficial before you start to assemble.* **Please remember that good ventilation is vital during this process. It is preferable to paint outdoors, but if you can't, open windows, turn on a fan, and wear a dust mask to prevent breathing fumes. Odors can also be minimized by having a bowl of baking soda near your workspace!
    Once the exterior of the dollhouse is painted, you are ready to start assembling.* There are a lot of glues out there, but some of the most recommended are Titebond Wood Glue or Elmer's Wood Glue.* If you're going to be building a dollhouse made of thicker woods such as plywood or MDF, it's suggested that you also use 5/8" to 3/4" finishing nails as extra support due to the weight.* Glue alone should more than suffice for houses made of thinner woods like luan plywood.
    Once you have the basic "shell" assembled, it's time to start wiring your dollhouse for light fixtures if you plan to have them.* Please review our Beginners Guide to Dollhouse Electrification for more information on this subject.
    When you've finished with your wiring, you are now free to paint and wallpaper all interior walls, paint or paper ceilings, and lay flooring.* If you know what paint and wallpaper you're going to use in which room, it's very beneficial to paint and wallpaper those wall sections "before" assembly of the house; if you prefer.* It's also recommended to hold off putting in any doors and windows until this step is done.*
    Once everything has been painted, papered, trimmed, carpeted, etc. it's finally time to decorate and furnish your dollhouse!
    If you still have any unanswered questions, please do not hesitate to contact us at allthingsmini2004@yahoo.com!
    Woman of short-lived passions

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