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Chủ đề: Chiêm ngưỡng một tác phẩm điêu khắc búp bê nho nhỏ

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  1. #11
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
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    Re: Chiêm ngưỡng một tác phẩm điêu khắc búp bê nho nhỏ

    Aqua Maria
    © 2008 Longefellowes Designs

    Aqua Maria is a One-Of-A-Kind piece, hand-sculpted of ProSculpt and Sculpey polymer clays. She is blushed and painted by hand, and has hand-dyed mohair locks.
    The base is hand sculpted and painted around a piece of natural coral, using paperclay, polymer clay and various other materials including moss and seashells.
    5.5"L x 4.25"W x 12"H


    Woman of short-lived passions

  2. #12
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
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    Re: Chiêm ngưỡng một tác phẩm điêu khắc búp bê nho nhỏ

    Morezmore #24
    Victorian Christmas Shopper (Part 1)

    Posted By Natasha Red October on November 27, 2009
    Part 2 can be found here: http://morezmore.com/myblog/2009/12/...mas-shopper-2/
    November 27, 2009

    Good morning! Mom sent me an email message with a festive holiday background and it caught my eye. Here is the next sculpt concept:
    Victorian Christmas Shopper

    Quick brainstorming:
    I will need to make a child – my first one, I will need to make an umbrella – black silk, stretched on brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=127179928[/IMG], I suppose, red velvet coat, need to look for white fur in scale – would have to be artificial fur, I do have snow for the base and white glitter – sprinkle it all over, need to look for lace and ribbons in scale – for the hat, I have black leather for shoes, need to find white silk for gaiters, she will be standing, so modular armature. I think I am set – I either have or can find all the stuff needed. I will be back with the update!
    thank you for watching
    December 1, 2009

    As it is my first child sculpt, I looked into proportions and anatomy of small children. The Christmas Shopper appears to be about 4-5 year old. I flipped through my anatomy books, found a anatomy reference diagrams. The books are Andrew Loomis – Figure Drawing for All It’s Worth, Andrew Loomis – Drawing The Head & Hands and Burne Hogarth’s Drawing the Human Head.

    December 2, 2009

    I want my sculpt to be 12 cm (4.8 inch). The reason for this is rather my preference. I normally make adult female about 20 cm (8 inch) and I find this scale easy to work with - the dolls come out not too large, and yet I can manage to make them pretty detailed -they are not too small. So, on the same scale, my 5 year old should be 4.8 inch or 12 cm.
    I took the image of 5 year old from the diagram above, cropped the image using Photoshop and printed it to be exactly 12 cm. Now I will have an easy reference in front of me – how large should I make the head, hands, feet, etc.
    Moving on to the armature and here are the pictures – step by step. The little shopper will have the modular armature, to make my life a little easier.
    So, here you go:
    Steel wire GA 17, wooden plaque 3 inch diameter

    all wrapped together with Steel wire 24 Ga

    The modules are cut out of brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=7681328[/IMG] – GA 3/32. As my drill died, I have to use my icepick to make the hole in the stand and it does the job.

    a piece of 1/16 brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=477928534[/IMG] goes into the hole – it will be secured later with Magic Smooth Epoxy.

    here you go – my little chrismass shopper is standing. There is a little bit of room between the the future foot and the stand – for the snow, in other words the brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=770234781[/IMG] in the stand is a bit longer than needed – I will cut it later more precisely.

    December 2, 2009

    Good morning!
    Here are two parts of Magic Sculpt Epoxy.

    Mixed Magic Sculpt Epoxy goes over the armature – to strenthen it, on top of the head module and on the base – to secure the rod. I had leftover Magic Sculpt Epoxy and just spread it over the base – to make it less even – there will be snow.

    All three parts go to the oven – about 15 minutes at 270 F – to cure Magic Sculpt Epoxy.

    December 6, 2009

    After 3 mornings of pain and suffering I was able to make a face for my little shopper that I can live with. Actually, better than that – I like it very much. She my first child sculpt and I had a lot of difficulty with her face. For 3 mornings I was making and folding heads one after another – either age was wrong, or expression, or smile was like a sneer, or she was just plain ugly – I just was not getting it at all.
    On the third morning it happened – I woke up, started another head and suddently I hit it – it appeared quickly and painlessly and very close to what I wanted her to be.
    I think I got the idea – cute chubby victorian face, quiet, content and anticipating little smile, sweet expression, a little overly sweet, if you know what I mean – but just right for a “precious little thing” look – the kind you see on Victorian Christmas cards.
    Well, here she is – I hope you like her.

    To help with the clay fitgeting on the smooth brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=154356328[/IMG] module, I made a little bulb and baked it – it worked as a core to which raw clay could adhere – it prevented the head from shifting and sliding while I was working on it.
    The eyes are glass eyes – 4 mm brown. She will have Tibetan lamb hair (Rich Auburn) and dark eyelashes.
    She has smaller cranium then she should have in real life – this is to allow for the hair and the hat. I am thinking that curls with a victorian hat, lace and all, will make her head appear huge. So making smaller cranium make help with that.
    The clay is Puppen Fimo Rose – lovely color with pink undertones – perfect for a child.

    December 8, 2009

    The next step, I figure, it to make an umbrella. Here is the logic – I need to sculpt the torso, it will depend – slightly – on the position of the arms – for example the shoulder blades will be affected. The position of the arms will depend on the umbrella position – I need to be careful so that the sculpture does not topple under the weight of umbrella which I think will be rather heavy. So umbrella it is.
    December 9, 2009

    I had to sleep on the umbrella structure – it is frequently helpful to give your mind a task in the evening and go to bed. Your mind will go off calculating different solutions and figuring things out while you sleep and you will wake up knowing exactly what to do.
    Ok, let’s put together the solution that I woke with and see what happens.
    How to Make an Old-fashioned Black Victorian Umbrella

    1) a heat-resistant plate and a piece of paper with a hole in the middle
    2)Magic Smooth Epoxy

    3) a washer
    4) brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=395680804[/IMG] GA 1/16, a bunch of small beads to serve as spacers

    5) a short vertical piece of brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=667133091[/IMG] GA 5/32
    6) more Magic Smooth Epoxy and another washer to finish this sandwich.

    While the Magic Smooth Epoxy was curing in the oven – about 15 minutes at 270 F – I made a handle for the umbrella. It is a piece of 3/32 brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=561495621[/IMG], bent to form a hook and covered with thin black natural leather (old glove) which is glued with Fabritac glue.

    Ok, I hear the oven bell – it is done. Let’s see what we have there.
    Great – it worked – Magic Smooth Epoxy fused all the parts into a hard undestructable blob. A bit of bending, cutting and fitting, here is what I have.
    The handle can be taken apart – this is so that I can put it into Shopper’s hand and so that the umbrella is removable when it is all done.

    I found black cloth – might look for another kind later – natural silk, instead of synthetic – but I already see a very good resemblance of a real umbrella.

    As I stopped to get my coffee, I took a picture of my backyard - the grey sky, snow on the ground and a flock of geese feeding on the field in the distance, the rawhide bone forgotten by Harley the day before. The view made me happy – it is a good day to be inside working on what I love. That reminds me – it is after 8 am – I need to start my Morezmore day – invoicing, answering questions, packing, shipping, – the usual. Talk to you later – thank you for watching!

    December 10, 2009

    The umbrella is done – it took forever, but I am happy with it. It is almost 10 am and I have to start working, so I just post the pictures which are rather self-explanatory. I used pins and tiny brass beads to stretch the cloth. The pins go inside the brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=166538122[/IMG]. The top of the umbrella – I am not sure what it is, I found it in my jewelry drawer, a finial of sorts. Almost all is done with Fabritac glue, a tiny bit of sewing – just to secure the cloth at the end of the each spoke, because the cloth is under tension and the brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=227177482[/IMG] might tear through the silk, so a few stitches at the spot hopefully will prevent it. There is a bit of silk ribbon to finish up the inside edge and hide the central wheel construction.

    December 11, 2009

    Good morning. This morning’s task was to make my Little Shopper hold her new umbrella. It is rather awkward to call her Shopper all the time (sounds like Consumer). So I decided to give her a name. I googled for most popular Victorian baby names and came up with Rebecca (Becky). Nice old-fashioned name, with a cute abbreviation.
    Back to the umbrella holding thing. First of all I stripped all the raw clay from Becky’s torso, as it was in my way.
    Here is the construction – her right hand module and the armature for the hand. It is a piece of 3/32 brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=597188905[/IMG] secured with Steel wire GA 24

    The umbrella fits into the hand armature just so and the bottom piece – handle - finishes the construction. The umbrella is removable and it will stay this way.

    Magic Smooth Epoxy – two equal parts, mixed all together, goes on all connections – both arms modules, hand thingy and feet modules as well. The head is still detachable, you will see on the different pictures head changing its position as I am trying different angles of the head – it is a good time to play with it and find the best position.

    Becky is back from the oven and she is holding the umbrella very nicely and securely, without toppling. The umbrella does not even need to rest on her shoulder (that was my Plan B, if the umbrella was too heavy for her).
    Thankfully, she does not need it, she is a strong girl and easily holds the umbrella in her hand all by herself.

    I also started putting the clay on her torso, but ran out of time and will continue tomorrow.

    I wanted to ask you – how is the page loading going for you – it is too slow? There are a lot of pictures here. I can start another page - let me know please.
    Another question – from the purchases in my store I am getting a feeling that there is a number of people sculpting along with me. I would be delighted to see your work in progress pictures – please share if you don’t mind. I will post your pictures here (if you permit me, of course) – I think it is fun to see different renderings of the same concept.
    We had a few Sculpt Along parties (online parties, of course) on ooakdollart forum (http://www.ooakdollart.com/forums/) when a number of artists agreed to sculpt the same concept. The fascinating thing was that the sculptures based on the same concept, same pose, made out of almost same materials were coming out amazingly different – truly One of a Kind.
    Starting new post Part 2: http://morezmore.com/myblog/2009/12/...mas-shopper-2/
    Talk to you later – thank you for watching!
    The supersized pictures can be found here:

    Morezmore #24
    Victorian Christmas Shopper (Part 2)

    Posted By Natasha Red October on December 14, 2009
    Continued from Part 1: http://morezmore.com/myblog/2009/11/...stmas-shopper/

    December 14, 2009

    Good morning. I have been sculpting on the weekend and taking pictures, as usual, not happy with the progress. I feel better about it today – good enough to post.
    Sculpted torso, baked, sanded. Washed the dust off thoroughly with dishwashing liquid and brush. Dried thorougly in the Deni oven – just an air blast – without heat.

    Tried the umbrella – wrong angle of arms at the shoulders, does not work. Carved out all the clay around shoulders. Decided to leave arms and shoulders alone for the time being and make hands first. Here is hand going around that tube thing:

    Sculpted hands and legs and baked and sanded and washed and dried and here is what I have up to this point. Still a few things that I don’t like and will correct them tomorrow – but overall I am happy with the way it is going.

    December 15, 2009

    Becky is all sculpted. There are some things I like and some things I don’t like about her – but that is normal. With each sculpt I start to get disappointed with my own sculpting skills at about this point. It is ok, I tell myself to just keep moving and hopefully do better next time.
    I am, however, eagerly looking forward to dressing her – I always enjoy that part, as it is, of course, much easier, much more fun and – last but not least – it will cover up some parts I am not thrilled about. So here you go, this is what I have by now.

    December 16, 2009

    Good morning! I was supposed to paint Becky’s face today and make eyelashes and hair, but instead I made her shoes and spats (spatterdashes). I was thinking about how to make shoes – thought I figured it out and decided to make them first and get it out of my system, so that I can concentrate of face painting without the distractions of the shoes.
    Here are the pics step by step. The boots made out of thin black leather (glove grade), the laces – thick sewing thread, spats – white stretch lycra fabric, spat fasteners – thin elastic band, buttons – black microbeads, the glue is Fabritac.
    I think I will change the elactic band to just white thread, as it looks a bit too thick on the pictures.

    December 18, 2009

    Good morning! Becky has a face, eyelashes and hair. The eyelashes are made out of feathers, one by one.
    This time, instead of tibetan lamb, I made eyelashes out of feathers tips – and liked it better. The general principle is the same. It works best on glass eyes.
    1. Search out and lay out feathers, crystal lacquer, sharp scissors, toothpicks.
    2. Cut off tips of feathers tiny pieces 1/8″ long.

    3. Apply very thin line of crystal lacquer to the upper eyelid (blue on diagram). Do a part of the lid at at time, as crystal lacquer dries fast.

    4. Wet a toothpick and holding it UPRIGHT VERTICALLY pick up a few “eyelashes”, making a small “bouquet”. 1-3 eyelashes at a time is good enough.

    5. Press the “eyelash bouquet” (red on diagram) into the crystal lacquer line (blue on diagram), aligning the bottom of the bouquet with the line where the lid meets the eyeball (green on diagram). Keep going until you have a decent number of eyelashes all around the lid. Don’t sigh in frustration as the eyelashes will fly away, you will have a mess and will have to start all over.

    6. Wait a few minutes to allow the crystal lacquer to set, but not harden completely. With a craft knife or scalpel, working on a small area at a time, press in and upward into the line where the lid meets with eyeball (green on diagram). That will tuck the crystal lacquer and the roots of the eyelashes under the lid and re-align the eyelashes so that they extend more forward and even a little downwards at the corners.

    8. All of this is easier said than done, but it is possible and practice makes it easier each time you do it.
    Becky’s hair is made out of tibetan lamb. Those are natural ringlets – I did not curl the hair. The step by step description of making hair is here:

    Here she is, I think she is lovely – and looks like what I imagined her to look like. Bedsock (a fellow dollmaker from OOAK Guild forum http://www.ooakguild.com/index.php?name=Forums ) said she reminds her of old Pear’s Soap adverts. I looked them up on the internet – yes, that is the look I was going for.
    Last update December 19, 2009

    I am sick – I think it is just a cold but it is rather strong - I am running 102 degrees F (38.9 celsius) fever and cannot even walk without holding to the wall – dizzy. Right after I posted yesterday’s update I started to shiver and feel woozy. Had to lay down - woke up in a few hours – no better, actually worse. Shivering and sweating alternatively since that time – have to stay in bed and come down only to get my medications and check the email. Thankfullly, I am a packrat and found quite a few cold meds in my cabinet – there is no driving anywhere, as we are snowed down rather well. It would be nice to have somebody here – but it is not an option – I don’t want my sister or my daughter to drive in this snow – they both live 1.5 hours away. So they don’t know, lol – they might now if they check my blog. I will post when I feel better and catch up with work. My mom who is coming in a few months to settle and live with me - from Russia – is worried that she will miss snow. I took a couple of snapshots – front and back of the house – there will be plenty of snow for her!

    December 21, 2009

    I am up and moving after 2 days of being bed-ridden. Still no sculpting – I need to ship 74 packages and answer 74 thousand emails. I am still snowed down, the big truck came and plowed the street and I shoveled a narrow path from my garage to the street – the path is only about 40 feet long, but it took a lot from me to do it. The snow height is comes to the knee. I need the path to put the packages into my mailbox. I have a huge long garden toolbox (my neighbor said it looks like a body box when I first installed it) - that is where I leave the packages for USPS pickup – to keep them out of the weather. Anyway, I made a path to that mailbox and to the street for the mailman. I do hope I won’t get pnemonia from this little exercise. But I am feeling very well, surprisingly. I am going to pack and ship all day today – my only wish is that I had some cream for my coffee.
    A question came up in comments:
    Joyce says:
    December 20, 2009 at 12:02 pm (Edit)
    Perfection….as always!! Nat….I was just wondering….how did you figure out how to do the armature the way you do it. It is so sturdy & well made….& so detailed for being so small. I’ve never seen one like yours….you put so much work into it….it’s amazing! Every detail…from beginning to end…..That’s what makes you a fantastic artist….you put your “all” into every detail. And working on such small parts is not an easy thing to do……it’s fascinating!!
    Glad to answer, Joyce, thank you for your kind comment!
    I figured out and made my first Brickhouse Armature soon after I made my first couple of dolls. When I first started sculpting OOAKs, I bought a CD on how to make OOAK fairies, followed instructions – it seemed to me I did it rather religiously – but the doll broke in several places. I made another doll and followed the instructions and it broke again – in the neck and in the groin area. It burned too, as I wanted to make sure the clay baked properly. So I decided it is not underbaked clay – so must be me – a slender delicate armature is obviously sufficient for many great OOAK artists – I see them making gorgeous OOAK without breaks, but not for me – I am a special case – I am too rough or clumsy or not getting some secret knowledge. So I decided to hammer it on my own.
    Well, now, at some point in my past I studied Architecture in the Polytechnical Institute in Russia – spent 2 years there before switching to the University. I did not finish the Institute, because I was disappointed and rather bored with the program. You see, I somehow was under the impression that when I become an architect all that will be required of me is to draw spectacular structures of future on large sheets of expensive thick white paper with finest pens in beautiful black ink. When the studies started I was surprised to find out that architects need to study not only history of art and architecture and similar refined matters, but also math and calculus and physics and resistance of materials and types of bricks and grades of cement and how to weld and all kinds of boring stuff. So I fled the Institute after two years (I would have done it sooner, but was afraid of my father) and continued my education in the Tver University, with a completely different Major – English language. But some of that engineering learning did sip through my head.
    So the inspiration came from that source – I remembered the rigid rebar armatures of buildings, modular structures, etc. So here you go – the result was the Brickhouse Armature. I sell it – click on the link. It is expensive, as it takes quite a bit of time to make it – and time is precious here. But if you are interested but too poor to buy it, you can look through this blog and you will be able to figure it out on your own from my work in progress pictures. Brickhouse Armature is good and strong – I sold many of them with glowing feedbacks – and the fact that I see knockoffs on ebay now confirms this fact. Some wise guy bought it from me and now sells them on ebay – without my permission. I am too busy to prosecute and also I look at it philosophically – immitations are inevitable, I think – whenever an idea or product of some value, however, miniscule, appears on the market, the knock-off birds of prey immediately start to discend.
    I called my armature Brickhouse after a great song – here it is – enjoy!
    December 25, 2009

    Merry Christmas!
    I spent the morning dressing up Becky. Fun! Stockings, bloomers, pettycoat, coat, hat. It was going well – easy-breazy and I enjoyed it so much that I did not notice how the time passed – as it is after 1 pm, I am going to stop and finish tomorrow – clean up the glue mishaps (a q-tip with acetone cleans up Fabritac nicely), style Becky’s hair, make a muff, the box for Becky to carry, make snow on the base, maybe a doll or a teddy bear for Becky to carry, etc.
    The fabrics used – stockings nylon – for stockings, silk gauze and lace for bloomers, lace for pettycoat, stretch velour and decorative rope cord for for coat, felt for hat, ribbon edge for hat ribbon.
    Here is what I have – enjoy your Xmas!

    December 26, 2009

    Becky Victorian Christmas Shopper is done!
    There was just a few details I added today – the muff, made of artificial white fur. And snow, of course. The snow on the umbrella, coat and under Becky’s feet is glitter – First Snow White Glitter mixed with White Aurora Borealis Glitter. I lightly sprayed (VERY lightly) with spray adhesive and sprinked with glitter, dusted off after 15 minutes or so.
    This is it – Becky is done – I enjoyed making my Xmas Shopper – I hope you like her!

    Talk to you later – thank you for watching!
    Last update December 27, 2009

    Wish us luck!
    Woman of short-lived passions

  3. #13
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
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    Morezmore #25
    Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 1

    Posted By Natasha Red October on January 2, 2010
    January 16, 2010

    Ball-jointed dolls interested me very much for a while, but Lily by Enchanted Dolls impressed me so much I had to drop everything and make my own BJD.

    Well, I have not seen a BJD in real life, only on internet – but I am not scared! … I think… Somebody pass me the salts…
    [UPDATE - I think I should clarify the matter. What I would like to attempt to do is to apply BJD techniques to the traditional OOAK dolls - in other words, BJD on a smaller scale, using polymer clay, Magic Sculpt, tubing, etc - all the materials I am used to. So it will not be exactly a BJD, as we know it, but I would like it to work like one].
    First thing - I got to read SOMETHING on the matter, I suppose. So I got a book YOSHIDA STYLE BALL JOINTED DOLL MAKING GUIDE
    Now, the book is in Chinese. A Japanese (original) version is also available, but getting it in Japanese would not help me either. Well, no fear. The pictures are very clear, I will use what I can figure out and add to it my own ways as I learn. If I must read something, I will find a Chinese-speaking person to help me, I am sure.
    [UPDATE - GREAT NEWS! APPARENTLY THE TRANSLATION IS DONE AND AVAILABLE AT THIS LINK Den of Angels Forum translation of Yoshida Style Ball Jointed Dolls Making Guide
    I also read a bit about BJD on google - looked at the pictures, etc. And lastly, I was thinking about it for a couple of weeks every night before going to sleep - picturing in my head the mechanics of the ball joints from what I saw on the web and deciding which kind I would like to try first - there are several types of ball joints and it is hard to know which one I prefer. So, to start with, I made a drawing on how to go about it using the materials that I already know and have in my studio. It is a good start. I am prepared to find that some of the mechanics as I see them now might not work and I am not worried about it. Once I know what does not work, I will be closer to finding the ways that do work.
    So, off I go.
    Rough drawing of all the parts - something to start with The elbow and knee joints can be a single-ball joint and a double-ball joint. I will go with a single-ball joint for the time-being - I think it is easier and next time will try a double-ball joint.
    Proportions of my future doll - taken from the book.

    Printout - it is 12 inches tall (about 30.5 cm)
    a ball cut out of styrofoam and mixed Magic Sculpt.

    Mixed Magic Sculpt goes over styrofoam to make a core for the head. There are holes for eyes, for neck and also a trace line around the head - to remove the head "lid" later.

    Here is the chest (upper part of the torso) - again, mixed Magic Sculpt around a piece of styrofoam

    Lower part of the torso - same thing
    Pieces of brass tubing[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=852918247[/IMG] and temporary ball joints - they serve somewhat like spacer beads so that I could sculpt around them keeping the proportions. When the doll is sculpted, fired and cut at the joints, I will replace the ball joint.

    Hand armature:
    Pieces of steel wire GA 24, painted with Ultimate glue and covered with shredded cotton ball (I used a q-tip), removed some cotton from it, cut it into small pieces with scissors.

    Rotate gently between your fingers, to evenly coat the wire. Then tied it together with sewing thread.

    Spread out the fingers, made a hand palm from Magic Sculpt.
    Same thing for the feet (well, almost the same).

    And here is what I have as of now. Out of time, will continue tomorrow.
    Thank you for watching!

    The Magic Sculpt cured and of course, I couldn't wait to string her together. Right now she is strung temporarily - with a simple string.
    Then I couldn't help playing with her a little bit -it is going to be a LOT OF FUN to make her, I already feel it!
    Ok, until tomorrow - for real this time - I need to ship a lot of packages - mailman will be coming soon.

    January 4, 2010

    Well, that head I made out of magic sculpt - no good, cannot use it. Started new one out of clay - inside there is a tube[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=725196341[/IMG] 5/32 and a temporarily ball in the neck. Traditionally, it takes me 3 days to make a head - and that is an improvement from 7 days a few months ago. So, here you go - the result of the Day 1. Will try again tonight or tomorrow morning. I wish I could just improve on this one but I doubt it - there is no room for the chin - the chin is too close to the neck. So, unfortunately, need to start from scratch. Talk to you later - thank you for watching.

    Marina sent a good link about making BJD - in Russian http://mstrok.ucoz.ru/publ/69-1-0-292
    January 6, 2009

    Made another head - still not good. Will continue.

    January 7, 2009

    Yet another head - better! I ran out of time - it still needs work, but I am happier. The clay is Puppen Fimo Rose.

    Also first experiments with ankle joint. The only elastic I have here is an elastic tie for turkey cooking. It is too thick, but works - until I get a better elastic.
    The metal inside the joint is a piece of steel wire 17 GA. There is a small straight piece going across the ball and an S-hook hooked to that little piece. The joint works, although the slot is too long and the range of movement is too wide for a human ankle - in other words, human ankle joint does not move that far. But this is something easy to correct - just decrease the slot by adding a little clay and rebaking.

    January 08, 2010

    Good morning. After more poking at the head, I baked it. Then sanded. Then covered with a very thin layer of the mixture of Translucent Liquid Sculpey and Prosculpt smoothing oil - to cover the sanding marks. Baked again. She looks pretty good, I think. The ball joint works! The head is strung with a simple rubber band at the moment. I am going to make the socket for the ball a little more snug - by adding clay and rebaking, but the general concept - the head is posable and retains the position when posed - polymer clay surface has a very good grip on another polymer clay surface.
    Here is what I have - thank you for watching talk to you later

    January 9, 2010

    Good morning! I was thinking about how to go about the chest - where the elastic strings need to cross - and here is what I came up with, let us see if it works.
    I had a power outage all day yesterday and couldn't recharge my camera - so I will just draw what I did with the chest.
    Of course, I can't help playing with the little I have

    About the hands - the wire armature did not work - it is too thick for this size of hands. So I used another idea.
    I wish I could take pictures yesterday - no electricity, but I hope it is clear from the drawings. It actually worked very well, I liked this way. The cotton thread ends sticking out of the fingers help to move fingers around while working on them. When I say thick cotton thread - it is really thick - I am not sure what kind it is - the picture is below. The hands are baked and I have been trimming the irregularities and bumps gently with the scalpel. I will need to sand hands a bit, add tiny bits of clay here and there, cover it with liquid clay and rebake later. That is all for today - thank you for watching and good weekend to you!

    January 10, 2010

    This morning session was wasted because of a rather annoying accident. I made a part out of Magic Sculpt - chest cross, put it into the oven to cure - without any protection, just plopped it on the glass. The Magic Sculpt got fused to the bowl of the oven - with a deadly grip. I spend about 40 minutes chiseling Magic Sculpt from the glass - with an exacto knife and a chisel and a hammer!! At every blow of the hammer I was pretty sure the bowl is going to explode into pieces. It did not, although I did scratch the bottom. Took an awful oath to NEVER do it again. I put the next part on a plate sprayed with a tiny bit of Pam (cooking oil spray - for my non-American readers) and wiped almost clean - much better - the ball slid right off. Meanwhile, the time has passed and I had to stop.
    By the way, the reason I was making the chess cross out of Magic Sculpt is the following - I made it first out of clay, baked - the tube[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=583947386[/IMG] slides inside the clay up and down, left and right. I would rather have them stable there. I also decided to make all ball joints out of magic sculpt, with a layer of clay on the surface, so that the wire hooks and tubes[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=192571172[/IMG] stay there deadset. The clay is not strong enough for this type of action. Anyway - will continue later.
    January 14, 2010

    Good morning - back to my BJD after a break. Things were busy with the Morezmore sales and also I had a power outage AGAIN. Decided to go buy a generator - got it, we set it up and it is ready to go for the next time.
    I put a little bit more work in - here is what I have - will continue tomorrow. Those two separate constructions - one of them (the chest one) has four tubes[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=417621003[/IMG] and the tummy bead has three tubes[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=405406555[/IMG]. If it looks unclear, it will make more sense when I put the clay around it. The beads and tubes[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=875298546[/IMG] are very strongly fused together with Magic Sculpt.

    January 15, 2010

    Good morning, I have a little more - more clay bulk on the body - baked - now I will be able to add a rather thin layer of clay on the surface and sculpt the body details. I am also going to make another pair of hands and feet - with new a hook structure made out of magic sculpt and wire. Here is what I have - thank you for watching

    To be continued at Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 2
    The supersized pictures can be found here: http://www.morezmore.com/BJD.html
    Woman of short-lived passions

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    Morezmore #25
    Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 2

    Posted By Natasha Red October on January 16, 2010
    Continued from Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 1
    Last Update: February 16, 2010

    Good morning. I got my elastic finally, put everything together – the elastic is one continuous loop. Well, folks, she STANDS – barely, but definitely stands. So now it is a matter of shaping, and refining and making all parts symmetrical – right now one leg is shorter. Better symmetry, better fitting leg joints will improve the standing balance. So far I am happy with the progress, although she looks rough, I know what to do to make her look better and stand better. Will be back tomorrow – thank you for watching!

    January 16, 2010

    Good morning. Hands again – for the third time. I decided to make the little hook construction inside the wrist out of and redid the hands. Took pictures too – to show that thread armature idea. Not every step is photographed, there is quite a bit of poking and smoothing and pulling, but it will give you the main idea.
    So, here we go:
    1. cut cotton thread with sharp scissors to make 5 pieces
    2. made clay fingers, and two pieces of clay for palm and back of palm. The clay is Puppen Fimo Rose.

    3. Attached fingers to the back of the palm
    4. Put S-hook joing and the palm piece on top, pressed it all together

    5. Made indentations between the fingers and sealed and smoothed the clay seams there with the Fine Point Rubber Tool.
    6. Attached and formed the thumb – with Kemper Johnston 3-in-1 Sculpting Tool, also known as Jack Johnston Primary Sculpting Tool.

    7. cut off excess clay and thread on finger tips
    8. made finger joint creases with the other end of Kemper Johnston 3-in-1 Sculpting Tool

    9. Palm lines – in Russia they are called “Fate lines” – again, with Fine Point Rubber Tool.
    10. Other tools used – a plastic straw cut at an angle to make nail beds, scalpel, colour shapers (also called clay shapers) in Size 0.

    Here you go – they are baked, they are looking pretty good to me – but I see some things I don’t like, so I will detail them tomorrow – shave some clay off with a fresh scalpel, add clay where needed, cover with Translucent Liquid Sculpey and rebake.

    Here is also a first go at the elbow joint. The joint is made out of clay, with a piece of brass tube[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=207530164[/IMG] inside, the arm and forearm – also clay with brass tube[IMG]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=10&pub=5574871585&toolid=10001&campid=5336456933&customid=&uq=tub*&mpt=20716285[/IMG] inside. The arms need lots more sculpting and fitting, of course. I stringed them on a rubber band to see what needs to be done, other than the obvious and took some pictures.

    Girls don’t need much to start flirting

    Here is what I have – will continue tomorrow. Thank you very much for watching

    January 17, 2010

    Change of plans. I came to the conclusion that I am going the wrong way about the whole thing. I am trying to think ahead and reinforce the parts which I think will be weak – nothing but a guesswork. Instead of that I am going to sculpt the entire doll in polymer clay and FIND the spots which are weak in reality and not in my imagination. Then I will reinforce them. So, back to square one, I will keep the head and the hands, the rest will be redone. Alan and Pat from ODA forum suggested using plastic straws inside the clay – for the sake of stringing. So this is the plan. Thank you for watching – be right back.
    This morning, I tried to make a single ball joint in the elbow – instead of what you see in the picture. It works, but the range of movement is rather restricted – pretty much 90 degrees bent in the elbow and no rotation in the elbow, definitely not as much fun as the double ball joint, so I discarded the idea. Now the double ball joint, although very posable, is all over the place – so I need to figure out the shape which will restrict unnatural bends in the elbow.
    It is almost 11 am, need to do some work – talk to you later – thank you for watching
    January 18, 2010

    Change of plans again – Polymer clay without reinforcement is not going to work – I see it already. Back to the original plan – reinforced structure out of Magic Sculpt with polymer clay on top. However, plastic straws sounds like usable idea – inside the Magic Sculpt – instead of tubes.
    Another bunch of Russian links on BJD – thank you, Marina!
    January 20, 2010

    And again, change of plans – Yes, it will work – pure Polymer clay. I am happy – I made a joint – it works. All that needed is a good fit of the joint. A VERY GOOD FIT. I will post the pictures shortly.
    January 21, 2010

    Good morning. So, elbow joint pictures, as I mentioned yesterday.
    First, I made a working joint prototype – crude and out of scale, but working. It bends to allowing the hand to be brought to the shoulder (almost at the moment and it can be made to close completely), it holds its position and it does not bend backwards and it does not rotate, because as Heather helpfully pointed out in the comment below – a human elbow joint does not have any rotation.

    Now, I will try to make the same joint in the scale for my doll – I am making two joints at the same time. Here is step-by-step:
    1. Made balls out of clay, made a hole – now they look like beads.
    2. Put small pieces of plastic drinking straws inside the hole – rolled between my palms again to make them round – and baked. Baking at the highest temperature allowed by manufacturer – 260 degrees for Fimo – good 20 minutes – I need all the strength I can get.
    3. Removed the plastic straws out of the beads – the easiest way is with the needle file.

    4. Jointed the balls together, with a piece of plastic straw, put some clay around to make cylinders and baked.

    5. Cut the sides off – to make flat sides – this will prevent the joint from rotating sideways making the rotation possible only in one plane (forward and backward).

    6. Cut and filed and sanded the slits for elastic – one side only – that will allow to bend the elbow forward and not backwards
    7. Put the piece of clay around the joint – wider on the outside of the elbow, narrower on the inside of the elbow. That will prevent the joint from rotating backwards. The front part will be fine-tuned later – shaved with knife and sanded to make a good close fit. Baked again.

    8. Named the balls – I will need it.
    9. Made arms and forarms – approximate – I am interested in the joint part right now, and worry about the other ends later.
    10. Inserted plastic straws inside.

    11. Made the sockets by inserting the balls into the ends of the arms and forearms. To prevent the balls from sticking, wet the balls before inserting. The sockets are exact negatives of the balls.
    12. Marked the arms and forearms the same letters and baked.

    13. Remove the straws.
    14. Match letters – they fit just right.
    I am out of time – so tomorrow I will make the other ends of arms and forearms, make them look like arms – by cutting and shaving and adding clay and rebaking. The sockets also need sanding – to make them look nicer.
    Thank you for watching – talk to you later.

    January 23, 2010

    A little more of arms. The shoulder joint does not work yet – it needs the second (torso) socket. The arms need shaping – carving with a knife and sanding. The old torso was discarded – does not work, I will make another one. Thank you – talk to you later.

    January 25, 2010

    Good morning. Made the chest and the tummy ball. The shoulder joints are being redone – to fit the balls in the shoulders. The old shoulders were too bulky. The progress is very slow. To cheer all of us up, we performed a little dance for your enjoyment.

    January 26, 2010

    Good morning. Sculpted the shoulder joints and baked. They are still rough – meaning I did not sand them yet to fit the sockets in the torso, but they already work pretty well – this is very exciting. I will fit them better tomorrow – I have a lot of packages to ship today and want to start working early, but here are some ball gymnastics with a glass bead – to celebrate our newly acquired shoulder joints!

    January 27, 2010

    Good morning. More cutting and fitting and testing and pushing those shoulder joints to their limits – exploring the range of the movement. It is fascinating. The discoveries include the shape of the shoulder joint, the shape of the torso socket and the neck joint limitations.
    For shoulder joint shape – please see below – that is what seems to work best (and I am sure it can be improved).
    The shoulder sockets in the torso are more open in the front than in the back – this way the elbow can come further towards the front.
    About the neck – I am going back to a separate ball in the neck like I had in the beginning – in other words, neck, separate ball, head – instead of what I have now – ball and neck together. I made the neck ball joint and the torso as one piece because that is what everybody else does – in all the pictures I see them together, but now I miss the freedom of movement in the neck that I had a few days ago.
    The stringing: I am using a very thin and very long crochet hook to pull the elastic through. The elastic that I have in my disposal is of very poor quality – it is actually a piece of turkey tie which is available at the grocery store. I will be ordering good elastic today – in two or three different grades of thickness. It is one piece loop and I will draw a diagram later to show how it goes – it that way works all the way through for the entire doll.
    I am also talking to a manufacturer of miniature springs – ready to place an order for 1000 springs 2 mm diameter by 40 mm long. I think that should work – the springs can be cut in two or three parts to make them shorter (the last coil will form a hook) or linked together to make them longer.
    Thank you – talk to you later!

    January 31, 2010

    Good morning. After a few very busy days at Morezmore, I am back! So, the legs and lower torso. I have a very vague idea of how it is going to work, but I have to start somewhere – so here are the parts. The ankles have the same ball joint as wrists, the knees have the same ball joint as elbows, the hips – same ball joint as shoulders. That is the plan for now. Will continue tomorrow – thank you for watching!

    February 3, 2010

    Good morning. I have a little more. I am waiting on elastic – I cannot string her – the turkey elastic string tie that I am using is too short. But I can work on individual parts. Here are the pictures:

    The concept for the doll is a teenage Nepali dancer. The inspiration came from the haunting face on the cover of the music CD that I have been listening to. The female voice rising out of the male chorus chant sends shivers up my spine.
    The music is Tantra from Tibet album by Waterbone
    Evening of February 3, 2010

    I searched the internet for Nepali dancing and there she was – my Teenage Nepali Dancer BJD doll concept – in flesh – dancing away!
    Yes, that is exactly what I had in mind – it is a perfect fit. Enjoy this dance – the girl is amazing
    The supersized pictures can be found here: http://www.morezmore.com/BJD.html
    February 13, 2010

    Good morning – long time no post. Between the snow, internet outage, increased sales volume (people are snowed in and shop online, it seems) and replenishing the inventory (after the spike in sales my shelves were empty) – I was very busy. Well, I am back and continuing. Here is our first attempt to stand. She stands on her own, not well – barely, because the joints are not fitted and because I still do not have good elastic – the delivery of the box with elastic is delayed due to the weather. So I strung her with rubber bands again and working on the shape of the legs. I did receive new needle files – they make things much easier – I am doing a lot of filing and sanding and cutting and fitting and filing again and trying again. The progress is very slow but it is moving along again. Here are the pictures – thank you for watching!

    February 14, 2010

    For a while I was thinking about bringing the tummy ball lower – into the tummy. This way she will be able to bend at the waist in a more natural way. So, while I am waiting on the elastic, decided to cut the lower torso and lengthen the upper torso part. Working on it – thank you for watching!

    February 16, 2010

    Good morning. I got my elastic finally, put everything together – the elastic is one continuous loop. Well, folks, she STANDS – barely, but definitely stands. So now it is a matter of shaping, and refining and making all parts symmetrical – right now one leg is shorter. Better symmetry, better fitting leg joints will improve the standing balance. So far I am happy with the progress, although she looks rough, I know what to do to make her look better and stand better. Will be back tomorrow – thank you for watching!

    To be continued at Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 3.

    Morezmore #25
    Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 3

    Posted By Natasha Red October on October 2, 2010
    Continuing from Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 2.
    I have some progress to report: My first ball-jointed doll is sculpted. Her name is Smita which means “Smile” in Sanskrit. Smita taught me a lot! I am going to make version II, taking into account everything that I learned from Smita. Meanwhile, here she is:

    To be continued at Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 4.
    Woman of short-lived passions

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    Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 4

    Posted By Natasha Red October on October 29, 2010
    Continuing from Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 3
    As I said in the previous part, now it seems a little more clear how to make a ball-jointed doll. So I have started on a new improved Smita. Here is what I have so far:

    DAY 1
    Let’s start with the head, neck and upper torso. The head and the upper torso will be hollow this time.
    So, step by step:
    Piece 1 – Head. Piece 2 – Upper Torso.
    1. Rolled a sheet of aluminum foil into a tight ball for the head. Roll a sheet of aluminum foil into a tight ball for the torso. Shape the ball into the torso shape. Insert a piece of plastic straw for the neck.
    Aluminum foil and plastic straws can be found in your kitchen cabinet or in a grocery store.

    2. Covered with a layer of clay. I am using Living Doll clay, which is, in a nutshell, generic Prosculpt clay – same formula, same manufacturer, different name. I love Prosculpt and therefore, I love Living Doll. Here they are. The difference in color is because one is not baked, the second one is baked. Also, different lighting. But it is the same clay, although it does not look it. If you have a piece of dirty clay, here is your chance to use it up.
    3. Baked both pieces for 15 minutes at 275 degrees F in the Deni convection oven.

    4. Forced a piece of wood through the head (that sounds painful, doesn’t it) – for a handle. After several false starts – only 3, I am definitely getting better – I managed to make a face I can live with. The head is baked (20 minutes at 275 degrees F). I can see a couple of spots that I need to add clay and a couple of spots to sand, but overall it is satisfactory.

    5. Cut a wider opening at the neck hole. With a pair of forceps, piece by piece, I got all the aluminum foil out.
    5. With an X-Acto knife cut a round opening on the top of the head as well. The idea is to install a hook inside the lid, so that, when the doll is strung with elastic cord, the lid will shut down tightly and hide all elastic. At least that is the theory.

    Ok, I’ve got to stop – need to start my working day. Here what I have – yes, the neck will be wider. The next step – sculpt the neck, the nect joint and upper torso. Thank you for watching!

    DAY 2
    This morning it occured to me that the chin is a bit too long, the lips are a bit too puffy and the eyes are a bit too bulgy. All those things can be fixed with sanding – so off I go with the sanding paper.
    I like sanding my dolls and always sand all parts, however, the results of sanding the face can be sometimes unpredictable, as you will see later – the personality of the doll might change rather significantly. However, sanding makes the face smooth, symmetrical and if I need more clay somewhere, here is my chance to add it. I needed more clay to make the neck socket for the neck ball. A wooden bead helped to make it nice and round.

    So, after sanding it all over, I washed it with a toothbrush and soap – that takes all the sanding dust away. Let it dry completely (got coffee). With a flat filbert brush, applied a thin layer of Translucent Liquid Sculpey.
    Translucent Liquid Sculpey (TLS) is self-leveling, meaning it will spread over the surface evenly, provided that it is not too much and it is not dripping and it is not too little. It fills tiny grooves left by sanding paper and whatever tiny cracks and separations in the clay that are invisible to the human eye. My bottle of TLS is pretty old, so yesterday I put some Sculpey Softener Oil, let TLS sit overnight and shook it vigorously this morning – my TLS got back its nice flow.
    After brushing TLS all over, I baked her for 10 minutes at 275 degrees F. The small amount of clay that I added and thin layer of TLS does not take a lot of time to set.

    So here is what I have – she is smooth and more symmetrical, but, as I said, she changed. She looks a bit older – that is good, as I am going for a 12-year old, but not as much personality as before. I am going to continue with her as she is. Overall, I am happy with her. Thank you for watching – talk to you next time!

    DAY 3
    Good morning, Happy Haloween!
    Well, it is the third morning I am posting – you did not expect to find me here, did you.
    I think I am back in the groove – it is a tricky business for me. Firstly, I need my store work to be done – since the divorce it is my only income (and not only mine – I have two 20-year-old boys who work here and, of course, Harley and Fluffmeister. They all want to eat every day).
    Well, as I am happy to report, Matt (my new shipping manager) is fantastic and took over the entire shipping – from printing the list and invoices to packing to printing labels and customs forms. One week of training – he is doing it all very well and very fast – domestic, international, everything.
    That was 4-5 hours of MY TIME every single day, including weekends and all religious and non-religious holidays – yes, folks, shipping is IMPORTANT, URGENT AND TIME-CONSUMING. Plus, of course – all other things that need to be done – invoices, accounting, ordering, maintaining inventory, emails to the buyers, making stuff, listing, etc. My normal work day is 14 hours long, every day. I love my work and consider myself very fortunate to have the life style as I do. However, the very important part – creative part of my work – suffers. Travis – my other employee – works a few hours every week and is a huge help, but the bulk of the daily work was on me. I needed to let go some of the work load. Finding a good shipping manager became critical. [Enters Matt]
    I found Matt at Walmart where he was working on the cash register. I stalked and watched the unsuspecting youth for several weeks while doing my grocery shopping. Consistently, week after week, he was super fast, efficient and, on top of it, friendly and courteous to the shoppers. So, one day, I waited for him to step outside the store during his break, caught him into a net trap and brought him to Morezmore. Just kidding. I simply offered him a bigger pay, he agreed and was hired on the spot.
    Secondly, I need to be off bread, sugar and starches. When I get super busy, it is very easy for me to slip into unhealthy eating – sandwiches, fast food, junk. The trouble is that those things make me feel tired, sick, old, irritable, achy, lazy, mind-fogged, fat, hungry, confused, bloated, crabby, slow, ugly, depressed, sleepy, short-fused, sluggish and lethargic. I think I covered it all.
    So, with Matt taking over a good portion of my work and feeling dizzy from these sudden riches of time, I finally caught my breath, went grocery shopping, cooked myself some legal low-carb foods (protein and greens) and it happened. The stars have lined up just so and I am supernatural again. One of the wonderful side affects is that I only require 5-6 hours of sleep when I am off carbs, so I wake up when I please – I do not own an alarm clock, totally rested, feeling like I have cosmic powers and run to the studio at 4 am.
    Piece 1 – Head. Piece 2 – Upper Torso.
    Anyway, next step is the neck joint. First I put the bulk of the clay on the torso, made the neck joint to fit the head socket (while it was raw, I just pushed it into the socket, carefully pull out, trying to preserve the shape). Putting a bit of water on the clay helps a lot.
    Then baked the torso, cut it open and took all the aluminum foil out the same way as with the head. The torso is hollow now.
    Then fitted the neck joint – by scraping and sanding – bit by bit. Then strung head and torso with an elastic loop and tested the neck joint – please see the pictures below. The neck joint works very well – holding the position nicely and looking very graceful, I think.

    On the back of the neck I made a stopper – that indent which looks like a step – it prevents the head from going too far backwards and too far around when the doll is looking over her shoulder.

    As I suspected – and I am sure it is not a mystery to everybody who is more experienced in it – the key to a good ball joint (the one that works and looks good while doing it) is a good tight precise fit of the ball and socket.
    The first doll stands all right and keeps simple poses, but I want to see if I can push the envelope this time and make the second doll keep complicated poses requiring balance of the whole body – dancing poses. The strategy is – first, making good-fitting joints, second, line them with liquid latex, third, make the whole doll lighter by making larger openings in the limbs and hollow parts (head and body). But the neck joint works so well, that my idea of lining the socket with liquid latex (I was mulling over it for a few days) seems unnecessary at the moment. Well, we shall see how the whole doll’s joint structure will work.
    DAY 4
    Good evening.
    Piece 3 – Right Hand. Piece 4 – Left Hand.
    I am going to make cotton thread armature in the hands similarly to the way I made them the first time:
    (Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 2)
    So, here we go:
    1. Cut cotton thread with sharp scissors to make 5 pieces.
    2. Made clay fingers, and two pieces of clay for palm and back of palm.

    The tools that you see on the picture are (from left to right): Tiny Polished Hook (will be available at Morezmore in a couple of days), Miniature Clay Sculpting Tool SPOON, , Fine Point Rubber Tool and X-Acto knife.

    Someday I will make a really detailed thorough description how to make the hands, for now – “shape the hands into hands’ shape”.

    Palm lines – this is new tool that I just got from Alex Mergold (AMCreatures) – it is a tiny polished hook – amazingly handy tool, just like other tools invented by by this talented artist who is also a fantastic innovator. The other two tools are Miniature Clay Sculpting Tool SPOON and Mermaid Tail Sculpting Tool.
    Cut the thread off, make a ball for the wrist joint, pierce it with a needle for the S-hook pin, bake.

    Baked, then made a slot in the wrist for S-hook with a needle file. Made an S-hook from the resilient wire. This wire is very hard to bend into S-hook, and almost impossible to unbend. To help with the task, I am using round nose pliers, wire cutters and flat nose pliers. Fastened the S-hook in the wrist slot with a pin made out of the same wire.

    DAY 5

    DAY 6
    Piece 5 – Right Elbow Joint. Piece 6 – Left Elbow Joint.
    This is Take 2 – I actually already made the arms yesterday half-way, but was not happy – the elbow joint was too big and the arm appeared swollen at the elbow. So I am redoing the arms and taking more pictures and posting more details. Here you go, new set of arms, blow by blow:

    Piece 7 – Right Arm (Wrist Socket). Piece 8 – Left Arm (Wrist Socket).
    Added clay to the wrist end of the arm piece, make into a skinny drumstick.

    With a wooden handle, made an indentation, smaller in the diameter, than the wrist ball. Cleaned out the inner tube opening. Inserted the wrist ball into the wrist socket and made it fit. Carefully pulled the hand out and baked.

    Cut, scraped and sanded to make wrists as slender and delicate as I possibly can. The wrists balls stay in the wrist sockets even without the elastic, but not too tight.
    It is very useful to name the pieces otherwise it gets confusing – I might grab the wrong piece which happen to fit that particular socket – accidentally – but it is wrong one – and I woulld continue without noticing – it happened to me, had to redo the whole piece, so now I mark them and make sure I put them in the correct order. It also makes the assembling the pieces for posing and pictures so much faster.

    Thank you for watching – Talk to you later!
    DAY 7
    Good morning!
    Piece 7 – Right Arm (Elbow Socket). Piece 8 – Left Arm (Elbow Socket).
    Made drumstick shape on the upper end of the arm. The drumstick is flattened, not round (look at your own arm).

    Made an indent with a wooden handle (smaller in diameter than my elbow joint). Opened and cleaned out the opening inside with a brass tube. Inserted elbow joint into the indent and shaped it to fit. To keep it alighned, it is better to run the brass tube (or any wooden stick that fits) through both parts – the elbow joint and arm. Carefully pulled the elbow joint and put into the oven to bake.

    Piece 2 – Upper Torso (Shoulder Sockets).
    Two pancakes of clay, smoothed out on the torso.

    Two wooden beads on toothpicks. They go into the socket half-way (see the line on the wooden bead).

    Removed the excess clay from inside the socket.

    Made sure that the sockets are vertical.

    Day 8
    Piece 9 – Right Forearm (Elbow Socket). Piece 10 – Left Forearm (Elbow Socket).
    Well, I forgot to take the pictures, but thankfully, the elbow sockets on the forearms are made the same way as the elbow sockets on the arms. (see the above post). The top part is just drumstick at the moment – the shoulder joint is not done yet. I will make the shoulder joints next and scrape and sand and shape the entire arms – make them as slender and smooth and graceful, as I can.
    Another thing that I did but did not take pictures off was opening (cutting) the elbow sockets (all four) at the front. Tomorrow I will draw the picture – how to open the elbow joint and add it here.
    Ok, here it is:

    Meanwhile, I decided to string together what I have and just look at her.
    I am using 2 mm elastic and a thin metal crochet hook.

    Looking good, I think. It is definitely working out!

    The next thing is to make shoulder joints, complete elbow joints and sand all surfaces on the arms to make them pretty.
    Thank you for watching, talk to you later!
    Day 9
    Piece 11 – Head Top

    Piece 12 – Lower Torso

    To make it less bumpy:

    Piece 9 – Right Forearm (Shoulder Joint). Piece 10 – Left Forearm (Shoulder Joint).
    The shoulder joints took quite a bit of cutting and fitting, fitting and cutting. Some sanding in between. At the same time I was working on the general shape of the forearm, using these anatomy images for reference. The images are from the book “Figure Drawing for what it is worth” by Andrew Loomis.

    Piece 7 – Right Arm. Piece 8 – Left Arm.
    Piece 9 – Right Forearm. Piece 10 – Left Forearm.
    Piece 5 – Right Elbow Joint. Piece 6 – Left Elbow Joint.
    This took cutting and sanding, trying to make the arms slender. Small ribbons of clay went on the elbow joints to complete them.
    Here is what I have – little by little she is coming to life. Thank you for watching – talk to you tomorrow!

    Day 10
    Piece 12 – Lower Torso

    Day 11
    Piece 12 – Lower Torso
    It is a struggle so far. But I have a great idea – will show next time! Thank you – talk to you later!

    Day 12
    Springs instead of elastic
    I did not get to my great idea this morning, as I spent the time stringing the doll with springs instead of elastic. Stringing with elastic every time I need to check something started to get a little old. So off I go with the springs. The springs that I have are really miniature – I got the smallest available. They are too dainty for the heavy polymer clay doll I am making. Looks like I need to get larger stronger ones. However, I found a solution for this time – doubling the spring (making it into a loop) – it provides enough power for this doll.
    After I finished putting it all together, I drew a diagram, here it is:

    If you care to see the bigger image of the diagram, here it is:
    On the picture (on the right, just above) – all the things I used: springs, resilient wire to make S-hooks, pliers, wire cutters, thin crochet hook, needle tool (just a sewing needle I put on a handle).

    Day 13

    To be continued:
    Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 5

    Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 5

    Posted By Natasha Red October on May 20, 2011
    Continuing from Morezmore #25 Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD): Figuring Out The Mechanics. Part 4

    May 20, 2011
    I did the legs and, unfortunately, did not have time to do the description – Smita is my second BJD doll and is quite a learning curve. The legs took so much fitting and cutting and remaking. I think on the third doll I will be able to write a good description. So, the legs are sculpted – here are a few work in progress pictures:

    A quick tip on how to use TLS (Translucent Liquid Sculpey) to make the baked sculpt nice and smooth, to cover scratches from sanding, cover up fingerprints, small bubbles, tool marks and other small imperfections:
    In a small plastic cup, combine Translucent Liquid Sculpey and Sculpey Softener Oil, mix to the consistency that is not too runny yet is easily spreadable with a brush. Here on the picture below you can see half of the head scratched and half of the head painted with TLS.

    Paint the sculpt, bake at the 275 degrees F, 130 degrees C. For Deni Convection Oven – 15 minutes is enough. It will create a nice transparent matte finish. Note that it will not cover dirt and fibers. For BJD – it will make a tighter closer fit on the working surfaces of joints. TLS also works as “clay glue” if you need to attach raw clay to baked clay or two baked parts.

    Thank you and talk to you later!
    May 23, 2011
    Here are the step by step pictures of putting hair on Smita. The written down description – very detailed – can be found here: http://morezmore.com/myblog/2008/03/31/fortuna-3/. No sense of repeating myself – I just re-read it – it is still the same process exactly, nothing new. Although I love to try new things, sometimes you find something and if it works, you stick to it.

    Woman of short-lived passions

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